AUSTRALIA

Life, the Universe and Taipan Wall

August, 2012

More than two years have passed since my trip to Australia but the memories, greatly captured by Reinhard Fichtinger, still remind me of one of the best trips ever done. I was travelling with Anna straight to Grampians and was stunned by the potential of both world-class bouldering and sport climbing thereby outmatching any other climbing spot known to me.

First we hit a patch of bad weather, getting rained in every day at almost freezing temperatures but then got really lucky with the conditions. Joined by a group of climbers from Austria we roamed the boulder fields and tried to get used to placing carrot hangers and placing gear when necessary while sport climbing.

Known world wide and omnipresent in most climbing calendars by Simon Carter’s unsurpassable pictures, we found Taipan Wall surprisingly solitary. Only on weekends some climbers from Melbourne worked on their projects making us feel like climbing at a private spot after all.

Nalle Hukkataival and Dave Graham had been further developing the bouldering areas the year before and we were impressed by the amount of great boulders they’d added. However, we were too busy climbing in the older areas to pay tribute to their achievements.

Two weeks of our trip we were joined by Chuck Fryberger who shot some sequences for The Network, showing my ascent of Southern Delight, a superb line on the right part of Taipan Wall. The route, an extension to an established 7b+, marks one of the best first ascents I was lucky enough to grab.

There is still great potential for new routes and boulders. Needless to say, I have to come back!

Thanks for the pictures to Reinhard Fichtinger!

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